NORTH VIETNAM IMPRESSION: Part 1 – Impressed by Halong bay December 1, 2008

Tai chi is known as the most graceful martial art, where the body functions smoothly and fluidly. It is a cleansing, meditative discipline, and best performed at dawn in a pristine environment. What better place to indulge in this ancient practice than on the deck of a boat in the middle of Halong Bay, Vietnam, surrounded by some of the most sublime scenery in the world?!

The sky is pastel pink, streaked with orange, softening to a duck-egg blue. The emerald sea mirrors the soaring limestone cliffs on the myriad of islands, mysterious grottos shrouded in the soft morning mist. A lone fisherwoman, bedecked in a conical hat, rows her longboat towards a floating village, her morning’s work complete. It is a setting worthy of the gods. But where is the co-ordination, the balance? A tai chi virgin, my feet feel like plodding size nines, my arms like leaden weights as I valiantly attempt to follow the master’s directions. “Your right arm is the eagle; your left is the cobra. Then sweep your right hand to your left, and bring them together like you are holding a soccer ball...” Only trouble is, my eagle is a seagull, my cobra a lizard and my ‘soccer’ resembles a watermelon. How do they make it look so easy?

Back to the city of Hanoi, Capital of Vietnam, I am faced with an even greater test of Tai Chi co-ordination (^^) – the simple act of crossing the road. Once again, I am all hands and feet, limbs and brain totally out of whack. I step, I withdraw, I stumble. There is an art to this, and, like tai chi, I must learn from the masters.

The trick to crossing the road in Vietnam is not to look. No “look left, look right, and look left again” – the old schoolyard adage will only leave you stranded permanently on the curb. The trick is to ignore your senses and every instinct – forget about the blasting horns, the motorbikes whooshing past, the sea of vehicles approaching – and simply step out into the fray in blind faith.

After a few false starts, I follow the lead of the locals, and simply walk. Straight. Across. I try not to look at the mayhem around me. I wince with every passing horn. But miraculously, the sea of traffic seems to part, as motorbikes, scooters, cyclos and bicycles anticipate my mission and make their way around me. I am just another obstacle on the road, one which they take in their stride. I make it safely to the other side and feel chuffed at the achievement.

A pleasant diversion from Hanoi’s crazy traffic and bustling markets, true serenity is found further field – at magical Halong Bay, 170 km east of Hanoi. With over 3000 islands rising up from clear emerald waters, this is truly a location worthy of its World Heritage listing, comparable in its beauty and mystery to Guilin or the limestone cliffs of Krabi. Most tourists choose at least an overnight boat-trip to experience the islands at their most captivating – at sunrise and sunset, when the calm waters mirror the soaring limestone outcrops.

According to legend, the islands, grottoes and cliffs were created by a giant dragon that lived in the mountains. As it ran towards the coast, its flailing tail carved out valleys and crevasses, which filled with water as the dragon plunged headlong into the sea. This creature is said to still inhabit the waters, a mythical beast known as the Tarasque, the local version of the Loch Ness Monster.

However, as our luxury steamer, The Emeraude, sat becalmed on the jeweled sea, it seemed impossible that any creature, great or small, could disturb the peace of this idyllic environment. A soft mist enveloped the fantastical rock formations; the glassy water was still, rippled only by the odd fishing boat setting off from colorful floating villages dotted along the shores of the islands. A cluster of red-sailed traditional junks, the overnight abode of backpackers and romantics, were moored across the bay, shining like lanterns in the morning sun. Grottoes, caves and beaches beckoned, to be explored at leisure in kayaks. And then there was the tai chi session on the top deck.

The Emeraude is a magnificent vessel, a replica paddle-steamer which encapsulates the traditions of seafaring of French Indochina. This is the most luxurious boat plying the bay, with comfortable air-conditioned cabins, first-class meals and gorgeous views from the canopied upper deck. Skippered by a gruff Aussie captain, it offers two day cruises of the Bay, including a visit to Sung Sot grotto and water activities including swimming off the back deck and kayak hire. This trip is not cheap, but it is certainly romantic and arguably the most comfortable way of experiencing this special place.

There is a popular saying: - “One has not been to Vietnam unless they’ve been to Halong Bay.” Combine that experience with a mouth-watering meal, a day exploring the markets of Old Hanoi, and the harmonious discipline of tai chi and you have a Vietnamese experience definitely worth savoring.

Enjoy trip on Halong bay with Emeraude, visit site: http://vietnamholidaynow.com/english/vietnam_tour_halong_Halong-Emeraude-Crui... or call: 84-43-6339577 / Yahoo ID: haiyen7585 / chienla77.

You can also choose a traditional wooden cruise instead, for instance: Indochina Sails, Ginger Cruise for luxury services, White Dolphin which is selling with special offer or Hailong cruise if your budget is limited

Next time I will come back with some writing on Hanoi in more detailed.

Official Website: http://vietnamholidaynow.com/english